Exodus
I woke up early on Wednesday morning, ate breakfast, and then brought my suitcases down to the lobby to check out. I was surprised to see a large group of Americans there for the same reason. Besides my fellow deployers, there was a group of a dozen or so with a distinctly ex-military look: large muscles, shaved heads, camouflage duffel bags. One guy had a ball cap with the Marine insignia that read SEMPER FI. I approached them, smiled, and said good morning. Are you all with CDC? No, they answered, we work at the embassy. When I asked what they did there, one man answered curtly that they were IT contractors. I suppressed a laugh.
I checked out of the hotel and got my statement, and then checked my full-sized suitcase with the concierge. I sent the luggage tag and photos of the bag to the CDC country team.
1349: We will continue evacuations tomorrow. Departing personnel should be ready for pick-up beginning at 4:00 am on Thursday morning. We are going to move very quickly, so please be ready to go when your residence is called on the radio. Remain beside your radio and your phone.
We all groaned and lined up to check back into the hotel. I joked in French with the hotel concierge, trying to take the edge off what was undoubtedly a stressful situation. We had another accountability drill. Disease Detective, Safe, Hilton.
I went back up to my room and set my laptop up on the desk again to continue monitoring emails. I was forwarded an email chain between senior agency leadership, who were clarifying whom we were allowed to communicate with for outbreak response overseas, amid the flurry of executive orders. “WHO remains a red light…One related question that has come up is how we view PAHO. For now, we consider them as tantamount to WHO, so the restriction on engagement applies as to [sic] PAHO, as well.” Not a single one of the senior leaders on that email chain still works at CDC today.
I started awake on Thursday morning at my 0330 alarm clock. I rolled out of bed, changed into my selected travel clothes, stuffed my pajamas into my go-bag, and made my way down to the lobby.
0415: Evacuation will start at approximately 04:30hrs (04:30am) today. All personal [sic] should be sheltering-in-place until the motorcade arrives to pick up their residence. SAFEAlerts and radio broadcasts on E&E R will announce collection zone and residence pickups. All supervisors who have TDY employees staying at any of these locations are responsible for forwarding SAFEAlerts and sharing radio broadcast messages. Personnel will be transported to the DCMR for consolidation and then to the embassy boats for evacuation to Brazzaville.
0423: No movements are permitted. Requests for exceptions must be approved by RSO. LE staff designated as essential staff performing critical duties are permitted essential movements. There will be no airport movements until further notice.
We all checked out of the hotel again. The CDC country director waited with us in the lobby, making sure that everyone was accounted for. I sent text updates to friends and called my husband to check in, listening to him explain the conspiracy theories being traded about the plane crash that had happened the day before at Washington Reagan National Airport. Like me, he was not sleeping.
We milled around the lobby as we waited for pickup. Our hotel, along with one other, was the final collection zone. We were the last ones.
0525: Collection Zone 4 HOTELS – Be Ready. Monitor Channel E&E R for further motorcade arrival updates. For TDY Personnel, sponsoring sections are responsible for ensuring they are kept updated on all SAFE alerts and applicable radio announcements. IF YOU ARE IN CZ1, CZ2, or CZ3 AND HAVE NOT YET BEEN PICKED UP: Contact Post One.
We received an email to take our suitcases back from the concierge and bring them with us. Then, at 0545: “The motorcade is there – please go to the ground floor.”
They took us in vans to the DCMR (Deputy Chief of Mission Residence), a walled compound with a spacious house and a manicured yard. I walked into the house and was immediately overwhelmed by the chatter of hundreds of people. A table in the foyer had been set with beautiful china coffee cups, but there was no coffee. Children were darting from room to room. Parents were trying to comfort screaming babies and toddlers. The DCM called for attention, and the room went quiet as she told us all that it was not safe for the children to play outside. “There is a construction site on the next block, and yesterday there were men climbing up to look over the compound walls. We do not want them to know that we have 300 people sheltering here. Please do not let your children go outside.” She went on to explain that embassy staff were working to get authorization for us to leave from the DRC government, and for those of us who needed them (including me) to get visas to enter the Republic of the Congo (ROC), so we could be evacuated to Brazzaville.
I wandered around the mansion in a sleep-deprived haze. The coffee was replenished, so I poured some into one of the lovely gold-rimmed demitasses and looked for a quiet corner. After hiding in the kitchen for a bit and washing the dishes in the sink, I found a spot looking out of a door by the laundry machines. The sound of the rain brought some comfort.
After a few hours, we received notice that we had clearance to leave. The DCM was handing out trash bags for people to wear as makeshift raincoats for when they were ferried across the river. I scrambled to find my suitcase and pulled my hardshell out. We were handed our passports as we climbed into the vans to take us to the riverbank. We drove to the “beach” as it was called and loaded onto covered ferries, 20 at a time. Even after looking out over the river from the hotel, I did not realize how large, or how fast, the Congo river was until I was on it. Huge chunks of dirt and grass swirled by us as we powered across the rapids. I should be nervous, I realized, but I’m not. I was too tired.
We arrived on the opposite riverbank and sat down in a holding area. While our passports were checked, a diplomat from the ROC embassy welcomed us. “Things are a lot quieter over here,” he joked. He explained that we would go to a hotel “to relax for a few hours.” That evening we would be taken to the Brazzaville airport, which had been closed to everyone but us, for our charter flight back to DC. I went to the Pefaco Hotel Maya Maya, which was quaint if a bit outdated. I took a shower and stumbled down to the restaurant for a 4 p.m. lunch. I went back upstairs and tried to sleep. At around 7 p.m. the front desk called to let me know that the motorcade was leaving. I ran down the stairs and out to the van. I was the last one.
The Brazzaville airport is a blur in my memory. I stood in line with families with children, including one with a hamster, and a young woman who had just been fired from her contractor position at USAID. We joked about trauma-bonding and fanned ourselves to try to stay cool, as there was no air conditioning. I went through the exit screening and made my way to the airport gate. I sat in a daze as we waited to board the flight, struggling to stay awake so I would not be left behind. I would not realize until later that the bright lights and noise of the grocery store would trigger that memory, and a panic attack to go with it. Finally, the jet bridge opened and we filed onto the plane. I sat down in the aisle seat of a row in front of the lavatory and prayed that no one would sit next to me. I dozed in my seat as we waited for the flight manifest to be approved at Dulles.
Finally, at 2 a.m., the plane took off. Once we reached cruising altitude, I laid down across the seats in my row and pulled a blanket over my head. For the rest of the 18-hour trip, I drifted in and out of sleep. There was a newborn who spent most of the flight screaming, his father trying to comfort him while pacing up and down the aisles. If I ate, I don’t remember it. We stopped in Dakar to refuel.
We crossed the Atlantic and touched down at Dulles. As the plane braked on the runway, the passengers around me burst into applause. I began to laugh, and then to cry, pressing my airplane blanket into my face to muffle the sound as I sobbed. It was over, I told myself. I had no idea that it was only the beginning.
This is the fifth installment of a multi-part series on a Section member’s deployment to, and evacuation from, the Democratic Republic of the Congo while on an emergency response assignment with the CDC. All views expressed here are the author’s own personal perspective and do not reflect the position of their employer or the U.S. government.
